Monday, July 14, 2008

Rock & Republic














Authenticating ROCK & REPUBLIC

A pictorial guide


THE BASICS

OK, ok, I know I say this in my other guides too, but that's because it's important! There are quick red flags to look for that will alert you to a fake without even studying the finer points.

· Seller is selling many pairs of brand new with tags pairs at dirt-cheap buy-it-nows. Remember, if it seems too good to be true, IT IS. NWT jeans cannot be profited on at $50 a pop. Retail price is calculated as 2.2 times the wholesale price. So if a pair of Rock & Republics are ordinarily $190 then R&R corporate sold them to the retailer for $86, and there is no bulk discount. An eBay seller can't possibly sell large amounts of real NWT product for less than wholesale.

· Seller has any feedback indicating non-authentic goods were received or has private feedback or private auctions

· Avoid items from sellers located in Turkey, China, Phillipines, Hong Kong, Bulgaria, or any other obscure country. These are all counterfeiting hubs where there are no repercussions to this type of activity (and no real way to go after them if you get ripped off). T

· There are only stock photos (professional looking photos stolen from an online store/website) and no photos of the actual pair in the seller’s possession. If they won’t show you exactly what you’re getting, there’s likely something to hide! Similarly, multiple backgrounds on home-taken photos may indicate that the seller “borrowed” their photos from another eBay seller!

ROCK & REPUBLIC AUTHENTICITY

There are many ways in which Rock & Republic jeans can be authenticated. It is best to use several of these features in concert, rather than focusing on just one aspect alone, since things can differ among the various styles. R&R is constantly changing their tags and other small details, so the only way to tell real versus fake is to look at the jeans as a whole. When you are first starting to authenticate R&R, it is very helpful to use an authentic pair for comparison .

Inner tag


R&R uses several different inner tag formats. Though the tags may change, the font and size stay specific to that particular tag format. Some errors in fake jeans include

  • shiny tags
  • incorrect font (often in smeared ink)
  • a “washed” appearance to the tags (wrinkled and worn when the pair is new with tags)


There are usually two tags, one size tag and another tag that lists the material content, care instructions, style code, cut #, RN and CA #’s. Some pairs use the large rectangular cloth tag with a raised, waffled texture. This tag will be paired with a size tag that says 'Rock & Republic Digitally Mastered in the USA', the size stitched in red, and a silvery thin line of microstitching. The “microstitching” on fakes will just be a line of silvery thread (like Christmas tree tinsel). When put under high magnification, numbers or letters should be revealed. Some older pairs do not have microstitching. The newest tags also do not have a security strip/microprinting

Another type of inner tag used on authentic R&R is the white papery style. It is paired with the size tag described previously or a newer style tag with the size stitched in big red cursive style that does NOT have a security strip with microprinting anymore. The style code will tell you everything you want to know about the jeans – cut, wash, and style. An example of a style code is crthawpb. It can be deciphered as Crystal Roth in Addict Wash with Purple and Blue stitching. Another would be cmrdcwnp – Crystal Madrid Crown Pink. Looking out for the C’s at the beginning can alert you to an irregular pair that is missing the crystals it should have!

With either tag type there may also be variations in the placement inside the jeans. Some may have the 2 tags on completely separate seams. Others may have the 2 tags stacked directly on top of each other.

In addition, on newer pairs you may find a small white tag behind the main tag that has the new R&R logo on the front with the word 'Authentic' printed below, and on the reverse of the tag contains the new microprinting strip, a serial number and is actually embedded with "Rock Rock Rock" in the stitching. One row faces forward, the next faces backward, all the way down the tag, almost like the watermark on a check or piece of paper!

NOTE: On some much older pairs there may also be a BLUE papery style tag, and on really ancient ones, a white papery one with a totally different format. Please visit Authenticforum if you would like pics/more info on these or authentication of them by our experts, ebay only allows 10 photos per guide :)

Note how the top tag looks papery. WRONG. The font is wrong on both tags. The Rock & Republic is not centered properly on the bottom tag. Heck, they didn't even spell Mastered right on the top one!! (masteVed)

Buttons/Rivets:


R&Rs uses 2 different types of rivets. There are the ones with one R backward and one R forward. There are also the plain rivets with concentric circles on the back and no R&R logo R’s. The rivets with the circles on the back are the newer style rivet. They are not indicative of fakes. Buttons will be engraved; the writing should be raised. Certain styles may also have specialty buttons and rivets, such as the skull jeans which may have matching Skull hardware.

Wash/Inseam


R&R jeans are characterized by neat stitching and amazing washes. The quality of the material is a big factor and usually a dead giveaway with fake R&R. Fakes will often have cheap, crooked stitching with exaggerated fading and pronounced whiskering. The wash should generally be smooth and even, not streaky or grainy. If you are not very familiar with washes, it helps to have an authentic pair to compare to. The inseam for all new R&R should not be less than 34” unless the jeans have been hemmed (the hem width on unaltered R&R is standard at ¼”). Be aware that some older pairs may have shorter inseams. Just because the inseam is shorter does not mean the jeans are fake, but it is a very strong indicator on newer styles.



The fake is streaky, harshly and abruptly faded and whiskered, and just plain cheap and disgusting!


Unless the jeans are irregular (stamped in small black letters on the lining of the inner pocket), all the above should apply. For irregular jeans, the denim quality of the jeans should not change. Common flaws that result in the 'IRR' irregular designation may be: points of over distressing, missing crystals/studs, nicks or holes, improperly sewn labels, or other small flaws. This often does not affect the overall look of the jeans.

Crowns


The crown jeans designed by Victoria Beckham for Rock & Republic are the most faked style out there. For authentic crowns, the crown should take up most of the back pocket, though they may seem slightly smaller proportionally on larger sized pairs (due to the same crown pattern being used regardless of size).

Fakes usually get the size of the crown wrong, either too small or huge, or skewed to the top or bottom (improperly centered)/improperly touching the pocket-rimming stitches.

The crowns should be finely detailed and pretty. The stitching on real crowns is tight and well packed. Note the flowers on the crowns; they should have a 3-D effect and be slightly raised. Regarding the navy blue back waistband patch, the stitching on the patch should be straight and lined up with the top of the waistband.

For crystal crowns, the crystals should be placed neatly within the outline of the crowns, and contain precisely 49 crystals total per pocket. All crystal R&R use genuine Swarovski crystals, which are extremely light reflective and sparkly. The crystals on fakes are cheap, plastic looking, and dull. For non crystallized crowns, there are stitched dots where the crystals would be on crystallized crowns. Also note that there are irregular jeans that were not completed with crystals because they already were found to have flaws in the denim, and thus have empty spaces where the crystals are supposed to be.



Note that on the fake on the right, the shape is off and crystals are badly placed. The stitching is sparse and crooked. The crown doesn’t fill the pocket like it should, and is misshapen, with a flat top.


Crystal R’s/Standard R’s


The crystals should be sparkly and placed within the outline of the hollow “R’s” on the back pockets. There is some variation (where the placement is very slightly differing) but this is almost always the case. The crystals should appear orderly and uniform, unlike many fakes with clearly haphazard and imprecise placement. The shape of the R’s should be sharp and defined.


Note how on the fake on the right, the shape of the R is totally wrong and does not properly fill the pocket (very malformed especially on the left aspect, where the arc is not deep enough, the lower side that comes to the point is overangled, and is overall skewed to the top of the pocket resulting in foul looking empty space and poor balance) and the crystals are haphazardly placed, some going outside the lines, some just crooked, and all-over in the wrong pattern with improper space in between the rows.

Shape of the “R”


The R’s on the rear pockets of authentic R&R always have a distinct outline and unvarying shape. They have defined and strong points. Fakes rarely get this right. Instead, the R’s will be curved or chubby. The R’s are not always completely symmetrical, however. For example, sometimes one R may go slightly further over the pocket edge stitching than the other, but never in a blatant and careless fashion. Compare the two pictures of the crystal Roths above to see the difference.











EVISU Guide Full Authentication of EVISU Denim


Full Guide To Authentication of EVISU Denim !!!

Once upon a time there was a real connoisseur of jeans, Hidehiko Yamane – as expert and demanding as only certain Japanese “otaku” can be. He soon realized that quality denim, the original, was impossible to find on the market. During one of his trips looking for vintage pieces, he came across a 1950s American loom capable of weaving forty metres of a “selvedge” denim a day. Yamane had an idea: why not make exceptional jeans for connoisseurs like himself? So the Evisu adventure began. He originally called his jeans Evis, after the Buddhist god of prosperity, and they were made in Osaka from pure American cotton. He personally painted his famous seagull logo on each article, a long and expensive process that only produced a dozen jeans a day.

"Rolls Royce of Jeans", the EVISU brand was founded in 1988 in Osaka, Japan by Hidehiko Yamane.

Yamane-san was trained as a tailor and his love for vintage jeans

led him firstly, to the vintage clothing import business and then, to start putting together the necessary information required to reproduce vintage-style jeans.

This required the gathering together of all the various parts of machinery, none of which had been produced for at least 40 years.

Evisu (also written as Evis or Ebisu) is the name of the Japanese Buddhist god of money who is usually portrayed with a fish and fishing rod. This name was selected for the new venture as money and fishing. Originally EVIS was changed to Evisu when the brand expanded worldwide in 1991 because the previous brand name was said to be too similar to "Levi's."

Evisu or Evisu Genes is a Japanese clothing company that specializes in producing premium denim wear through traditional, labor-intensive methods.

MAKING OF EVISU GENES

The Japanese line has 3-4 basic standard lines of denim quality and is denoted by a number on the patch. so No.0, No.1, No.2 and No.3. 0 being the highest in quality and price and 3 being the lowest in quality and price.

No.0 - It's like a evisu prototype denim, seems very rare/limited and is meant to be more irregular and textured than the no1. Really no one knows much about it.

No.1 - 14.5oz. selvedge and made in japan. high quality and is not pre-shrunk (unsanforised), is slightly darker than no.2.

No.2 -14.5oz selvedge and made in japan. high quality but may be not as dark or seen as good quality as No.1 and is preshrunk (sanforised)

No.3 - mass produced outside of Japan in CHINA. medium grade quality and not selvedge. (sanforised)



Evisu are just another repro company in respect to their fits. all vintage cuts

Evisu denim is made on old style shuttle looms rather than modern projectile looms.

Cross thread in the old style weaving process goes back and forth during the weaving process. But modern projectile looms, shoot each cross thread through individually, hence the edge of the cloth is frayed rather than clean.

Traditional method was to have a straight outside seam and cut right up to the selvedge so that when you turn the jean up you see the two selvedge edges of the denim stitched together. You can also see it on the inside of the coin pocket.

Evisu chain stitch the hem which gives the thick stitch line visible around the hem when you turn the jean up. This requires a special machine which has not been produced for 40 years.

Evisu denim is indigo dyed by loop dying machines

Old shuttle looms have not been made for over 40 years.

Old Shuttle Looms make cloth about 30 inches wide.

Projectile Looms can make fabric 60 inches or even wider for much less money.

Evisu jeans has a minimum of 16 dips and some styles have 30 dips

Evisu need approximately 3 yards to make each pair of jeans.

All Evisu jeans are made of vintage selvedge denim.

Evisu has spent the last 10 years developing their jeans to be as authentic as today's

vintage jeans can be.

WHAT DO YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SIZING OF YOUR EVISU GENES:

Denim woven on the old-fashioned looms has a loose weave and shrinks when washed. Therefore, Evisu jeans need to be purchased in a size two inches larger than the desired size.

Repeated stretching and shrinking give the jeans a character that is unique to the wearer.

Evisu jeans instead of fading to white over time, they take on a unique greenish tinge that highlights the fabric texture.

"Wearing the jeans on the hips and rolling them up; this mode has become known as "Evisu style."

EVISU has 6 different lines in production

*DELUXE EDITION !

Salvage denim produced by Kuroki Japan, one of Japan’s finest and most prestigious denim makers.

The Japanese selvedge denim that the Deluxe jeans are made from is produced by Kuroki Japan, one of Japan's finest and most prestigious denim makers.

*HERITAGE !

Heritage Line includes all the selvedge denim. Denim woven using original model 29" shuttle looms. The selvedge denim is a more open with a strong indigo red caste due to the repeated dip dying of the yarn.

*MEN'S MAINLINE !

Men's Mainline includes many new styles and cuts with an influence from American classics.

*EVISU EUROPEAN EDITION !

Fundamentally Japanese in its use of denim, but Italian in its cut and style yet the shape is more European and refined.

*EV GENES !

Ev Genes is playful, casual, and younger collection.

*EVISU COLLABORATIONS!

This is collaborations between EVISU and other diffrent name brands.

WASHING INSTRUCTIONS !

Your Evisu clothes should last as long as you do, if you wash them properly.

INDIGO, UNWASHED DENIM !

In a cold/cool wash: The waist will shrink 1 inch. The length will shrink up to 2 inches. The indigo dye will run and eventually fade with every wash. Deep dry or dry flat.

PRE-WASHED DENIM AND ALL EVISU EUROPEAN EDITION JEANS !

In a warm wash:The waist will shrink up to 0.5 inches. The length will shrink up to 0.5 inches. The dye will slowly fade in a hot or cold wash. While Evisu uses a variety of denim throughout each collection, the vintage Indigo and unwashed denim is the most traditional, and these tips will ensure their longevity.

WASH YOUR JEANS FIRST !

When you buy your jeans in the shop, there will be starch on the denim, making it feel very hard. Turn your jeans inside out and wash them in cold or luke-warm water. This will get rid of the starch in/on the denim and (in the case of non-shrunk denim) cause it to shrink so that you can cut the length. Your jeans will shrink even more if you use a dryer.

CUTTING THE LENGTH !

If you wish to cut your jeans to length, do so AFTER washing and drying them. Mr. Matsukura suggests the following style: "Just little gap between floor an socks. When you wear shoes it will be just right. If it is too long, damage fabric easily." You can also choose to turn the jeans up showing off your selvedge.

TO WASH OR NOT TO WASH !

Many people choose not to wash their denim fearing it will damage the fabric even when they are quite dirty. Mr. Matsukara, a shop manager in Japan, advises you to "buy few pairs of Evisu jeans and wash sometimes".

THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR !

All Evisu tags have the word "jeans" spelled as "genes". Unless it is a tag from a particular store. Evisu DO NOT use the correct spelling.

Most Evisu Men's genes come with 5-BUTTON front closure, especially the raw denim genes.



The front buttons of Evisu Geans always have the word "EVISU" written on them.



Authentic Evisu buttons DO NOT come with china man or godhead.

All Evisu Genes ribbons and rivets on the inside and outside of the jeans either come with words "EVISU" written on them or Japanese letters.



All Evisu Genes have selvedge if they are raw, and if they are the EU Editions (European Edition) or non-raw denim they will have some kind of taping.

Most Evisu Genes should have a chain stitch. Chain stitch is on the inside of the jean. When you turn up the jean, the selvedge should show and on the opposite side to the selvedge there should be the chainstichin yellow or gold.



Most Evisu Genes usually have orange and yellow stitching around the genes.

All EVISU Genes are made from rope dyed indigo yarn which is partially transferable.

Most Evisu Geans have TWO tags attached. One tag attached to the right rear pocket.
Second one is on the waist on the back left side of the jean .
The tag has words "EVISU GENES" written, and a picture of a man painting EVISU logo on a pair of jeans. The inside of the tag has some pointers on how to spot fake evisu jeans.

The patch on the back should be made of leather.


Evisu does make shorts. However EVISU DO NOT make Daicock shorts with the paint that runs down the back of the legs (that appears as a large "M").

There are quick red flags to look for that will alert you to a fake without even studying the finer points.

Remember, if it seems too good to be true, it really is. EVISU jeans cannot be sold on ebay for $69 or $89 Retail price is calculated as 2 times the wholesale price. So if a pair of EVISU are originally sell for $400 then EVISU corporate sold them to the retailers for $200 and there is no bulk discount on any of the EVISU items.