EVISU Guide Full Authentication of EVISU Denim
Full Guide To Authentication of EVISU Denim !!!
Once upon a time there was a real connoisseur of jeans, Hidehiko Yamane – as expert and demanding as only certain Japanese “otaku” can be. He soon realized that quality denim, the original, was impossible to find on the market. During one of his trips looking for vintage pieces, he came across a 1950s American loom capable of weaving forty metres of a “selvedge” denim a day. Yamane had an idea: why not make exceptional jeans for connoisseurs like himself? So the Evisu adventure began. He originally called his jeans Evis, after the Buddhist god of prosperity, and they were made in Osaka
"Rolls Royce of Jeans", the EVISU brand was founded in 1988 in Osaka , Japan
Yamane-san was trained as a tailor and his love for vintage jeans
led him firstly, to the vintage clothing import business and then, to start putting together the necessary information required to reproduce vintage-style jeans.
This required the gathering together of all the various parts of machinery, none of which had been produced for at least 40 years.
Evisu (also written as Evis or Ebisu) is the name of the Japanese Buddhist god of money who is usually portrayed with a fish and fishing rod. This name was selected for the new venture as money and fishing. Originally EVIS was changed to Evisu when the brand expanded worldwide in 1991 because the previous brand name was said to be too similar to "Levi's."
Evisu or Evisu Genes is a Japanese clothing company that specializes in producing premium denim wear through traditional, labor-intensive methods.
MAKING OF EVISU GENES
The Japanese line has 3-4 basic standard lines of denim quality and is denoted by a number on the patch. so No.0, No.1, No.2 and No.3. 0 being the highest in quality and price and 3 being the lowest in quality and price.
No.0 - It's like a evisu prototype denim, seems very rare/limited and is meant to be more irregular and textured than the no1. Really no one knows much about it.
No.1 - 14.5oz. selvedge and made in japan. high quality and is not pre-shrunk (unsanforised), is slightly darker than no.2.
No.2 -14.5oz selvedge and made in japan. high quality but may be not as dark or seen as good quality as No.1 and is preshrunk (sanforised)
No.3 - mass produced outside of Japan in CHINA
Evisu are just another repro company in respect to their fits. all vintage cuts
Evisu denim is made on old style shuttle looms rather than modern projectile looms.
Cross thread in the old style weaving process goes back and forth during the weaving process. But modern projectile looms, shoot each cross thread through individually, hence the edge of the cloth is frayed rather than clean.
Traditional method was to have a straight outside seam and cut right up to the selvedge so that when you turn the jean up you see the two selvedge edges of the denim stitched together. You can also see it on the inside of the coin pocket.
Evisu chain stitch the hem which gives the thick stitch line visible around the hem when you turn the jean up. This requires a special machine which has not been produced for 40 years.
Evisu denim is indigo dyed by loop dying machines
Old shuttle looms have not been made for over 40 years.
Old Shuttle Looms make cloth about 30 inches wide.
Projectile Looms can make fabric 60 inches or even wider for much less money.
Evisu jeans has a minimum of 16 dips and some styles have 30 dips
Evisu need approximately 3 yards to make each pair of jeans.
All Evisu jeans are made of vintage selvedge denim.
Evisu has spent the last 10 years developing their jeans to be as authentic as today's
vintage jeans can be.
WHAT DO YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SIZING OF YOUR EVISU GENES:
Denim woven on the old-fashioned looms has a loose weave and shrinks when washed. Therefore, Evisu jeans need to be purchased in a size two inches larger than the desired size.
Repeated stretching and shrinking give the jeans a character that is unique to the wearer.
Evisu jeans instead of fading to white over time, they take on a unique greenish tinge that highlights the fabric texture.
"Wearing the jeans on the hips and rolling them up; this mode has become known as "Evisu style."
EVISU has 6 different lines in production
*DELUXE EDITION !
Salvage denim produced by Kuroki Japan , one of Japan
The Japanese selvedge denim that the Deluxe jeans are made from is produced by Kuroki
*HERITAGE !
Heritage Line includes all the selvedge denim. Denim woven using original model 29" shuttle looms. The selvedge denim is a more open with a strong indigo red caste due to the repeated dip dying of the yarn.
*MEN'S MAINLINE !
Men's Mainline includes many new styles and cuts with an influence from American classics.
*EVISU EUROPEAN EDITION !
Fundamentally Japanese in its use of denim, but Italian in its cut and style yet the shape is more European and refined.
*EV GENES !
Ev Genes is playful, casual, and younger collection.
*EVISU COLLABORATIONS!
This is collaborations between EVISU and other diffrent name brands.
WASHING INSTRUCTIONS !
Your Evisu clothes should last as long as you do, if you wash them properly.
INDIGO, UNWASHED DENIM !
In a cold/cool wash: The waist will shrink 1 inch. The length will shrink up to 2 inches. The indigo dye will run and eventually fade with every wash. Deep dry or dry flat.
PRE-WASHED DENIM AND ALL EVISU EUROPEAN EDITION JEANS !
In a warm wash:The waist will shrink up to 0.5 inches. The length will shrink up to 0.5 inches. The dye will slowly fade in a hot or cold wash. While Evisu uses a variety of denim throughout each collection, the vintage Indigo and unwashed denim is the most traditional, and these tips will ensure their longevity.
WASH YOUR JEANS FIRST !
When you buy your jeans in the shop, there will be starch on the denim, making it feel very hard. Turn your jeans inside out and wash them in cold or luke-warm water. This will get rid of the starch in/on the denim and (in the case of non-shrunk denim) cause it to shrink so that you can cut the length. Your jeans will shrink even more if you use a dryer.
CUTTING THE LENGTH !
If you wish to cut your jeans to length, do so AFTER washing and drying them. Mr. Matsukura suggests the following style: "Just little gap between floor an socks. When you wear shoes it will be just right. If it is too long, damage fabric easily." You can also choose to turn the jeans up showing off your selvedge.
TO WASH OR NOT TO WASH !
Many people choose not to wash their denim fearing it will damage the fabric even when they are quite dirty. Mr. Matsukara, a shop manager in Japan, advises you to "buy few pairs of Evisu jeans and wash sometimes".
THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR !
All Evisu tags have the word "jeans" spelled as "genes". Unless it is a tag from a particular store. Evisu DO NOT use the correct spelling.
Most Evisu Men's genes come with 5-BUTTON front closure, especially the raw denim genes.
The front buttons of Evisu Geans always have the word "EVISU" written on them.
Authentic Evisu buttons DO NOT come with china man or godhead.
All Evisu Genes ribbons and rivets on the inside and outside of the jeans either come with words "EVISU" written on them or Japanese letters.
All Evisu Genes have selvedge if they are raw, and if they are the EU Editions (European Edition) or non-raw denim they will have some kind of taping.
Most Evisu Genes should have a chain stitch. Chain stitch is on the inside of the jean. When you turn up the jean, the selvedge should show and on the opposite side to the selvedge there should be the chainstichin yellow or gold.
Most Evisu Genes usually have orange and yellow stitching around the genes.
All EVISU Genes are made from rope dyed indigo yarn which is partially transferable.
Most Evisu Geans have TWO tags attached. One tag attached to the right rear pocket.
Second one is on the waist on the back left side of the jean .
The tag has words "EVISU GENES" written, and a picture of a man painting EVISU logo on a pair of jeans. The inside of the tag has some pointers on how to spot fake evisu jeans.
The patch on the back should be made of leather.
Evisu does make shorts. However EVISU DO NOT make Daicock shorts with the paint that runs down the back of the legs (that appears as a large "M").
There are quick red flags to look for that will alert you to a fake without even studying the finer points.
Remember, if it seems too good to be true, it really is. EVISU jeans cannot be sold on ebay for $69 or $89 Retail price is calculated as 2 times the wholesale price. So if a pair of EVISU are originally sell for $400 then EVISU corporate sold them to the retailers for $200 and there is no bulk discount on any of the EVISU items.
1 comment:
I have a pair of Evisu Jeans which I'm trying to determine if authentic or not. I believe they are, but I want to make sure. Can you help?
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