Saturday, July 19, 2008

Guide for RMC Collector















Red Monkey Company Jeans - Selvedge


RMC - Selvadge

Real Red Monkey/ RMC Martin Koshoh jeans only use selvedge denim produced on a 28inch loom. Fake Red Monkey jeans are produced on a cheap machine. Fakes use poorly made denim with coloured overlocking and in some cases they dgethe coloured denim and sew to the edge of the seams to make it look like selvedge. Fake Red Monkey jeans also have a poor quality hem and the colour of the thread is usually too dark like the photo

Real Red Monkey jeans have a leather waistband patch and not imitated PVC. The patch is also double stitched all the way round and not single stitched like the photo

Fake jeans can seriously damage your health! Many in the fashion industry are claiming counterfeit jeans should now carry a health warning! According to many in the industry fake jeans made in the backstreets of China are washed and dyed using irty waterwhich is contaminated with toxins, pollutants and heavy metals. These contaminants then remain in the counterfeit jeans when the denim is dried and can reputedly cause severe skin irritation and some have even suggested this can potentially cause cancer. The other concerning is when these counterfeit jeans are washed the contamination will be present in the steam which will be inhaled and cause further health problems to the owner. Counterfeit jeans washed in this irty wateralso have a stagnant and rotten smell which can never be removed.

Sample of RMC Design







Red Monkey Company Jeans


RED MONKEY COMPANY (RMC)

RMC Martin Ksohoh or, to be more precise, RMC by Martin Ksohoh is the brain-child of Martin Yatming, the design genius and fashion guru behind the Red Monkey Company of 2005. Martin is renowned throughout the world as a denim master whose attention to detail is unrivalled. If you thought Red Monkey 2005 was good youe seen nothing yet! Keep your eyes peeled for RMC by Martin Ksohoh - this brand will blow your mind!It official

Red Monkey Company changes name to RMC Martin Ksohoh. To help prevent any confsuion all Red Monkey Company jeans are officially branded RMC Martin Ksohoh. All jeans branded RED MONKEY COMPANY after 2005 are counterfiets/fakes. Martin Koshoh only made limited runs of 300 per style of RED MONKEY COMPANY jeans in 2005 and since 2006 has branded all his denim and apparel RMC Martin Ksohoh and this is now the official brand name. So beware of any post 2005 jeans branded RED MONKEY COMPANY - Theye fakes!

Martin Ksohoh is one of the most innovative fashion designers to emerge from Hong Kong and his denim collections have been celebrated by a long list of high profile stars and fashionistas alike

Because of their status as one of the most desired jeans on the market today, RMC jeans are heavily counterfeited throughout the world. To help protect buyers from counterfeiters, Martin Yatming, aka Martin Ksohoh, founder of RMC jeans, has provided you with the following information:

  • All seams should be stitched in double yarn and not single yarn. Poorly finished button holes and sewing is a good sign of a counterfiet Red Monkey jeans. Pocket lining should not be pure white in colour, it is ivory and made of thicker fabric. The photo above showing these points is an example of a fake RMC jeans we managed to purchase
  • The real RMC jeans embroidery on the oyo StoryCollection always finishes in the side seams regardless of the waist size but the conterfiets/fakes have a gap and do not go into the seams. The photo above is how fake RMC jeans look.
  • The genuine RMC Jeans red tab should be red on the outside and inside, unlike the counterfiet/fakes which are red on the outside but white inside. Fake red tabs will aslo shrink after washing whilst the genuine red tab does not.
  • Genuine RMC has a dear skin leather waistband patch and not imitated PVC like the counterfiets/fakes. On the genuine RMC the dear skin leather patch is also double stitched all the way round and not single stitched like the counterfiets/fakes as the photo above.
  • Counterfiets/fakes RMC Jeans have a thin space of denim showing on the centre back seam and the embroidery doesn line up to match like the photo above . Also the colour of the blue embroidery changes drastically instead of fading gradually. Real RMC jeans do not show denim spacing, it is fully embroidered to the edge of the fabric and this is then turned into the side seam. The real oyo StoryCollection has 800,000 stitches and is more like a tapestry and a piece of denim art.
  • Real RMC jeans ONLY use selvedge denim producedon a 28inch loom. Counterfiet/fake RMC jeans are produced on a cheap machine. Counterfiet/fakes use poorly made denim with coloured overlocking and in some cases they dgethe coloured denim and sew to the edge of the seams to make it look like selvedge like the photos above. Conterfiet/fake RMC jeans also have a poor quality hem and the colour of the thread is usually too dark.
  • This photo is a Genuine Red Monkey/RMC Martin Ksohoh selvedge denim for comparison

Spotting fake COH jeans n an Authentic COH

AUTHENTICATING COH

There are a few features that can be very useful to you in your quest for real Citizens. In trying to determine authenticity though, try to look at a pair as a WHOLE, not by just 1 feature (because for instance, a fake may have a great looking tag, but not be real once other factors are taken into account). It is also helpful to look at a pair you know is REAL so your eye can be trained in what to look for. You will see some examples here, but you should also go to a retail store in your area, or visit Authenticforum to look at the photos in our extensive style guides!

WASHES


First - Citizens of Humanity is, first and foremost, a premium brand.... meaning expensive and manufactured to reflect it! That means good quality denim, beautiful pleasing looking washes, and not streaky rough garbage denim!

Notice the wash is smooth, even, and the whiskering is subtle and nice looking. The fake COH , the denim is, well, there's no other way to put it... crap! The wash is streaky, the whiskering is way too bold (like someone streaked chalk over it) and is not even and the distressing area on the knee looks like a child with a cheese grater did it.

Pocket Design

Next lets take a look at the COH signature pocket. The 'H' design should fill the pocket EVENLY and FULLY. The right pocket will feature a small cloth logo label on the right side, varying from a little less than 1/3 to about a full 1/3 of the way down the pocket edge. The tail of the H should end BELOW or actually be BENEATH the red label. NEVER ABOVE.

TAGS AND RIVETS

  • Now let's look at the fine details, and the ones that are most often misunderstood around these parts. THIS IS THE DEFINITIVE truth about COH rivets. Do not follow any other eBay guides.

    COH uses multiple types of rivets. There are "H" logo rivets, and there are COBRAX ORIGINAL marked rivets (we are talking about what is printed on the inside-the-jeans side of the rivets, not the outside). What Citizens does NOT use is rivets with NOTHING on the back, such as just a blank rivet with a hole in the center.

  • In addition, note that the back of the front button also may have either the H or Cobrax original, and the rivets and buttons can be in ANY combination as well, meaning that the button can have an H while the rivets have Cobrax Original!

TAGS: Citizens of Humanity has 2 inner tags. A top tag with the size and a silver security strip with microprinting (it says Citizens of Humanity if you look under magnification, a few old styles do NOT yet have a security strip or have one that is slightly different. Again VERY old pairs, never more current styles), and a bottom tag with the fabric content, style info, etc. There are also 2 types of bottom tags! One is the satiny tag, and the other is a waffle texture/woven tag. Either way, the font on the tags is always the SAME. Even and CLEAR.

Fakes often have:

  • Smeary/nearly illegible print
  • Incorrect fonts
  • "Security" strips that don't have a darn thing on them, and are just strings of metallic lameness!

Inner Tag

  • The real types of tags, waffle and satin. the font is CLEAR and legible, and evenly spaced and smooth. The security strip is a thick rectangle that is well secured and has microprinting that can even be seen with the naked eye. They may say Made in USA or Made in USA of imported fabric

Some final notes


COH is NOT smarter than a 5th Grader! LOL - COH has been notorious for misspellings on the tag. Polyurethane may be misspelled as PolyurAthane (a mistake also seen on real Seven For All Mankind for a bit), and the underside of the tag may also have Instruction misspelled as Intruction. Way to go Jerome! tsk tsk. So yes, believe it or not, this does not indicate a fake!

Spotting fake Citizen of Humanity jeans.


Spotting fake Citizen of Humanity jeans isn't that hard if you know what to look for. Fraudulent products are design for one thing and that is to design to confuse the consumer. One of the tricks are using similar logs with the same likeness as the authentic product. The worst thing about buying these jeans on line is that the sellers can show you any picture they want in their ad, however when you get it something total fraud. That thing about over sea seller is that they make direst copies of the jeans with an official looking logos on it. Check the official tag on the inside of the jeans. It should be stained and shiny. A lot of the fake tags are rough and rigged. On the backside of the button or snap of the jeans should have original engraved in on it. Have a "a" , " c" or "h" engraved on it means it a fake, nothing else should me engraved on it? If anyone say they to then they arenot being trueful with you. One other notice features in fake Citizens Of Humanity jeans is the is the material. The material that the fake jeans are made of are of a lesser quality and feels very rough. After washing them once then become even rough like they have been starched along with pin hoe tears / micro fractures in random spots along the means. Some time after the jeans will become weak and rip between the legs at the seem.

  • Inseam COH jeans are no less than 33 1/2 to 34 inches long unless professionally hemmed. If they are listed as new with a 32 inch inseam, there is a 99.9% chance these are fakes

  • COH jeans always have a smooth tag not like the ones listed above. You will also see a double stiching that goes all the way around on the inside of the jeans that these fakes don't have

· Have a silver stiching below Imported Fabric at the inner tag

Citizens of Humanity









Citizens of Humanity

Citizens of Humanity Jeans are manufactured in USA using imported denim from Italy. Established in 2000 by the makers of 7 for all mankind and based in Huntington Park, California. Jeans are designed every season which are never reissued.





. OTHER TIPS

Though the tag will be your best resource, especially until your eye is trained to what each wash should look like, for which Keine Chance den Fakes! will be your best resource, the following are often characteristics of fake:

  • POCKET LINING – The pocket lining is solid white on older pairs, and has subtle vertical striping on newer ones. Either way, the pocket lining should NOT be thin like tissue paper


  • RIVETS/BUTTONS – should be stamped with a 7 on the back. The rivets should never be raised/nippled or depressed on the inside surface, nor should the seven ever appear black/darkened.


  • HANGTAGS - Hangtags can sometimes be a big giveaway to a fake, however first realize that there are multiple types of real hangtags that have been used over the years. First is the standard hangtag. This tag consists of a thick lightly waxy paper, with subtle vertical corrugation, with the following front and back

The tag should not be heavily shiny, nor should it be matte, or flat without ridges, or thick and rigid looking like cardboard. Here are fake tags with a thick cardboardy look, and/or no corrugations (and a weird wrong looking string attacher on the last one):

OTHER IMPORTANT POINTS: Remember that Seven For All Mankind is NOT the same company or designers or affiliated in any way with Seven7. They do bear some similar markings and the obviously confusing name, which has resulted in much legal turmoil between the two.

Seven7's are sold at Lane Bryant and Express among a few other locations, at much lower retail prices than 7FAM. 7FAM is sold at Nordstrom, Saks, Neimans, etc. for well over $100 (above $200 for the more ornate styles). A seller can say "Authentic Seven7" and be telling the absolute truth in their listing, but they AREN'T authentic 7FAM. Similarly, many sellers WILL claim that the item is 7FAM when it is really Seven7. Learn the ropes of Seven (tags, logos, etc) and you will not fall into this trap.

Real on size Tag of 7FAM



  • the size tag should have a FLAT top line, not rounded.

Fake on Size Tag of 7FAM


Real Tag of 7FAM



COMPARE with reals:

Note here on the real tags the 2’s have a gentle curve.




If you are a size 30+, you have an added bonus font error ON OLD STYLE TAGS WITH THE RED SIZE TAG. The 3 on the size tag should have a FLAT top line, not rounded

Example of Fake 7FAM



The font is incorrect

This holds true for pretty much every fake I’ve ever seen. Some look really close, but none are all there. Errors can include being too bold, too widespread, uneven spacing. Pay close attention to the number 2’s, these are the most easy to see discrepancies in. Sevens 2’s are curved at the bottom right as they approach the base horizontal line. They are not sharply pointed in the corner, nor do the diagonal and horizontal portions meet at a very small angle.
Barcode sticker fonts are generally also incorrect on fakes. The easiest to identify is that the zeros should have slashes through them ( / ) . Any zero without a slash indicates a fake.



EXAMPLE of fake:

The first tag is a good example of bad font on both sticker and tag. Note no slashes through the zeros on the sticker. Note the deviant font on the tag, especially the 2’s (pointy on the lower left) and the 7 (too short on the top line). The second tag is overall totally incorrectly shaped font, and way too bold


The font is incorrect

This holds true for pretty much every fake I’ve ever seen. Some look really close, but none are all there. Errors can include being too bold, too widespread, uneven spacing. Pay close attention to the number 2’s, these are the most easy to see discrepancies in. Sevens 2’s are curved at the bottom right as they approach the base horizontal line. They are not sharply pointed in the corner, nor do the diagonal and horizontal portions meet at a very small angle.
Barcode sticker fonts are generally also incorrect on fakes. The easiest to identify is that the zeros should have slashes through them ( / ) . Any zero without a slash indicates a fake.



EXAMPLE of fake:

The first tag is a good example of bad font on both sticker and tag. Note no slashes through the zeros on the sticker. Note the deviant font on the tag, especially the 2’s (pointy on the lower left) and the 7 (too short on the top line). The second tag is overall totally incorrectly shaped font, and way too bold



FAKE TAG COMMON ERRORS

1) The cut and style numbers are stitched onto the tag like the rest of the printing

The cut and style numbers on a normal yellow tag are always PRINTED on the tag in an inked typeface. They are NEVER stitched.

Note that the cut and style are stitched on. Now compare to the real tag where they are printed, and thus in a much larger and smoother font:

7FAM inside tag



a white paper tag with this info, which may or may not have the R/N number printed on this side of the tag, and say “Made in U.S.A” instead of the above wording (Within the exact same style there may be some cuts produced with yellow tags, and some with white tags). Pairs made for the Canadian market will also have TWO large tags, either yellow or white, one in english, and one in French as seen here:

Bottom: small yellow tag with 7FAM logo on front, and metallic looking security strip and etched serial numbers on the back. The security strip will reveal small black 7 For All Mankind logos printed throughout when viewed under magnification, or small red symbols on some newer pairs